Garment waistband and method of making same



Sept. 1, 1953 s. F. STEIN GARMEMT wAIsTBAND AND METHOD oF MAKING SAME Filed June 20, 1949 .olaz

INVENTOR Patented Sept. 1, 1953 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE GARMEN T WAISTBAND AND METHOD 0F MAKING SALIE 4 Claims.

My invention relates to improvements in garments and more particularly it relates to trousers adaptable for support from the wearers shoulders iby means of Suspenders. The object of my invention is to promote a substantial conservation of the material constituting the waist portion of the trousers; to reduce to a minimum the likelihood of the suspender buttons becoming detached therefrom and to obviate also the likelihood of the button sewing thread becoming unravelled or unlooped and consequently pulled out of the button eyes.

The foregoing objects may be accomplished in an acceptable manner and inexpensively, as will appear from the following description.

In the drawings:

Figure 1 illustrates the waist portion of a pair of trousers suspended by suspender straps, comprising clasp devices;

Figure 2 illustrates the waist portion of a pair of trousers suspended by suspender straps, comprising button-engaging end tabs;

Figure 3 illustrates a sectional View on line 3--3 of Figure 1;

Figure 4 illustrates `a sectional view on line 4--4 of Figure 2;

Figure 5 illustrates a diagram showing a method of applying the waist lining and canvas to the waist portion of trousers;

Figure 6 illustrates a diagram of a cross section showing the construction of the waist portion of trousers subsequent to the application of the waist lining and canvas thereto.

Referring to the drawings.

Ill represents the waist portion of a pair of trousers; II represents Suspenders adapted to support the trousers from wearers shoulders comprising straps I2; I3 represents metal clasp devices associated with the ends of the respective suspender straps I IA, each clasp device comprises complementary jaws I4, each having a toothed ange I5, the two anges of said clasp device act to effectively grip and clamp the adjacent part of the waist portion I0, when said part is interposed between said jaws to be grasped by the toothed flanges I5, and by the action of the conventional operable lever Il, pivotally connected with said clasp device I3, the jaws I4 are moved to a clamping position, while by the reverse movement of the lever the jaws are shifted to an unclamping position. 'I'here two such clasp devices at the rear ends of the suspender straps and two such clasp devices at the front ends of the suspender straps.

'I'he action of the clamping and unclamping of` the clasp devices in relation with the waist are portion of the trousers is eiective quite frequently, with the consequence that the trouser material at the point of contact, in the case of trousers ordinarily constructed, becomes frayed from Vthe effect of the repeated gripping of the anges thereat, and when the material is attacked by the effect of the gripping :at one spot the fraying soon expands and extends over a larger area, due to the fact that the likelihood isthat the point of gripping will not always take place on a determined spot and consequently the broken strands and textile fibers will be shifted from the original position by the action of the jaws of the clasp device with the result that the area of the frayed material will be expanded to an undesirable extent, because no provision has been made in connection with the usual construction of trousers to obviate the aforesaid condition arising from the use of clasp-suspenders as a supporting means for the trousers, which Suspenders may be employed whether or not suspender-buttons are provided at the waist portion of the trousers.

In the case where suspender-buttons have been provided at the waist portion of the trousers it is feasible that button-engaging Suspenders be used. In the ordinary construction of the trouser waist portion, suspender-buttons are sewed onto the usual waist lining material with the stitching passing through also the adjacent customary` canvas material interposed between the trouser material and said lining material, and when strain is exerted by the effect of the pull of the suspender button-engaging straps in :relation to the respective suspender-buttons, the portion of the lining material to which the button has been sewed in connection with the adjacent canvas material will be pulled away from the trouser material, with the result that the button-sewing thread becomes stretched by the tension of the effect of the pull, carrying along with it a portion of the lining material and the adjacent canvas material, because as in the former case, no provision has been made in connection. with the usual construction of trousers to obviate the aforesaid condition.

The suspender buttons referred to herein are usually sewed onto the waist lining of the trousers by a button-sewing machine and preferably the machine employed for this purpose is a single-thread chain stitch machine. During final trimming operation of the trousers which takes place after the suspender-buttons had been sewed on, any superuous thread ends present are removed from the trousers and it happens that the person attending to this job grasps the free end of the button sewing-thread and unloops all the stitches through the button-eyes 39, because the sewing has been performed by a chain stitch machine, a stitch which is easily unlooped, and in this case as in the two preceding cases no provision has been made in connection with the usual construction of trousers to obviate this condition as stated above.

The present invention contemplates provisions whereby the foregoing objections are eliminated.

Referring further to the drawings. The waist portion I of the trousers, comprises a waist lining I8, and a canvas band I9 interposed between the trouser waist portion material Ill and Waist lining I8. The canvas band I9, having been coatn ed with a suitable adhesive substance upon its surface adjacent to the rear vsurface of the waist portion material I0. By the action of heat and pressure produced by a steam pressing machine a perfect adhesion relating to the contacting surfaces is achieved thereat. This operation is performed after the sewing operation of buttons 2| onto the Waist lining I8, with the stitching 3| passing through the thickness of canvas I9. Consequently the looped thread bulge 22 has been included in the adhesion process referred to above, to obviate the unlooping of the chain stitches and the consequent detachment of the suspender-buttons from the Waist lining I8 is prevented.

The adhesion of the canvas to the waist portion of the trousers as described, serves another purpose to prevent the displacement and shift- 4ing of the textile fibers and strands constituting the woven texture of the trouser material, which may be effected by the lrepeated gripping of the suspender clamp-device flanges I5, as described.

The adhesion referred to also serves to produce substantial resistance against the pull of the suspender straps tending to detach the suspender-buttons from the waist lining I8, as exf rcanvas band to the waist portion of the trousers,

would be hindered from serving the desired purpose of conforming to the particular shape of the trousers waist portion had .the waist lining and the canvas relating thereto been placed in a laminated positionat a stage prior to having been applied to the waist portion of the trousers.

`While it is preferred to have the waist lining and canvas cut bias in order to produce a .'neater and more satisfactory job at the waist portion of the trousers, it is also feasible that the same be cut straight, or woven in the form of straight bands.

It is also within the scope of the present invention that the waist lining be produced in the form of a band comprising adequate texture that would render the canvas material dispensable,

,and-in this case-the waist lining band would have the adhesive substance covering the inner surface thereof, providing for the same objects and benefits as would have been derived by the presence of the vcanvas band, as described.

'A preferred method ofoperation in connection with the present invention is illustrated diagrammatically in Figures 5 and 6, described as fol- `duced by the sewing machine needle 23.

The bias waist lining I8 is released from a continuous roll face up in a conventional manner and is guided systematically towards the needle 23 of a sewing machine through a suitable folder device iorming a folded edge 24, ready to be stitched by needle 23. Folded edge 24 is the upper edge of the waist lining when finally stitched onto the waist portion of the trousers as indicated by I6, in Figures 3, 4, 5 and 6. At the underside of the Waist lining I8, canvas band I9 is guided harmoniously with Waist lining I8, with the edge 25, which is the upper edge when stitched to the waist portion of the trousers, extending slightly further than the adjacent folded edge 24. The top edge 26, of the waist portion I0 of trousers I I, is interposed between waist lining lI8 .and canvas band I9. Then the three edges mentioned are united by stitching I6 pro- The next step is to fold the material of Waist portion I0, over the upper edge 25 of canvas band I9, and by stitching 28, the lower folded edge 2 of waist lining I8 is securely attached to the trousers, securing also the canvas band I9 thereby. Stitches 28 may be the conventional lock stitches, or they may be performed by a blind stitch machine serving the same purpose.

The final step is to submit the completed waist portion to the action of heat and pressure in order to effect adhesion ofthe canvas band I9 and the material of the waist `portion I0 of the trousers, by the medium of the adhesive v,substance 2S. When the two sides of Vcanvas band i9 had been coated with ladhesive substance, waist lining I8 would also receive the effect of the adhesion and .all the members constituting the waist portion would consequently be firmly laminated for the purpose described.

It is also within the scope Vof the present invention that the inner side of the waist lining 'I8 may as well be treated with `adhesive substance, if desired. The waist lining I8 may have edge 24 and edge 21 come offthe roll previously folded, the adhesive substance having been applied thereto before the folding operation has been performed. In this case `the folded edges may be pressed by narrow heated rollers or thin wheels which would contact merely the folded edges Without effectively touching the adhesive substance covering the vrest of the waist lining material. The outer surface of the folded-.over material not .being covered by adhesive substance would serve vthe purpose that Vwhen the waist lining I8 Ais produced from material coated with-adhesivesubstance with thefoldededge subsequently produced, `the ,lining could be con- .veniently .wound on .a roll without any excessive pressure on the adhesive substance, due to the vpresence of the folded-over material acting as aseparating element, which feature would also act advantageously in the case when thercoating Vhad `been applied after vthe folding operation had been performed.

It is understood that trousers having suspender-buttons at the waist Vportion thereof are adaptable to be suspended `by either button-engaging type Suspenders or Suspenders having -clasp devices fortheir purpose of holding up the trousers.

The adhesive substance'is'such that willbe ineffective as long as itiis not submitted to action `of heat and pressure'andthekind'that would substantially resist the effects of .dry-cleaning and laundering.

`While it is shown diagrammatically in the drawing that the waist lining I8 and canvas band i9 are being fed as separate materials unattached to each other, it is feasible that the waist lining I8 and -canvas band i9 are fed already united by a line of stitching securing the lower edge of canvas band I9 to the adjacent lower edge of waist lining I3 and in order to produce the pressed folded edge 27, a narrow heated roller or wheel may be employed to crease merely the folded edge instead of the usual heated roller which covers substantially the entire width of the material which may effect the adhesive subn stances present thereat prematurely.

While I have shown and described a preferred embodiment of my invention, it is understood that the same is susceptible of modification in various forms Without departing from the spirit and scope of my invention. I desire that what I claim be given broad interpretation and be limited only by the prior art pertaining thereto.

What I claim is:

1. The structure of a waistband lining for the interior waist portion of a garment having an upper end edge, a facing strip having an upper edge and a lower edge, a stiffening strip having upper and lower edges, said fascing and stiifening strips being superposed and with the corresponding upper and lower edges in parallel relation, said stiffening strip being provided with a heat and pressure sensitive exposed adhesive coating covering substantially the entire area of the outer surface thereof, the upper portions of the respective inner sides of the facing strip and stiffening strip being in separated relationship, thus providing for the reception of the upper end edge of the garment material between the respective upper portions to be stitched thereat and said adhesive providing also for the subsequent adhesion of the stiffening strip to an adjacent ply of the waist portion when heat and pressure are applied thereto.

2. A garment comprising a waist-encircling portion having a waistband lining for the interior Waist portion of the garment having an upper end edge, a facing strip having an upper edge and a lower edge, a stiffening strip having upper and lower edges, said facing and stiffening strips being superposed and with the corresponding upper and lower edges in parallel relation, said stiffening strip being provided with a heat and pressure sensitive adhesive coating covering ysubstantially the entire area of the outer surface thereof, the upper portions of the respective inner sides of the facing strip and stiffening strip being in separate relationship, thus providing for the reception of the upper end edge of the garment material where said end edge is secured and said adhesive providing also for the adhesion of the stiffening strip to an adjacent ply of the waist portion when heat and pressure are applied thereto.

3. A garment having a waist-encircling por tion comprising an exterior textile material and a textile material constituting an interior waistband facing, said facing being attached to the top edge Iof said exterior textile material and extending downwardly therefrom to the inside of the garment where said facing is secured, a stiffening strip interposed between the inner sides of the respective materials, said stiffening strip being provided with a heat and pressure sensitive adhesive coating covering substantially the entire surface of the strip adjacent the exterior textile material and secured thereto, suspender buttons sewed to the waist-encircling portion, the sewing thread constituting the button attaching means being imbedded in the heat and pressure sensitive adhesive coating of the stiffening strip to securely hold the suspender buttons in xed position.

e. The method of assembling a garment waistband which comprises fabricating a facing strip with upper and lower end edges; fabricating a stifening strip having an upper end edge and having an exposed heat and pressure sensitive adhesive coating covering substantially the entire area of the surface of said stiffening strip; positioning the respective strips in superposed relation with the upper portions of the respective inner sides of the facing strip and stiifening strip in separated relationship; folding the upper end edge of the facing strip in under while the upper end edge of the stiffening strip remains unfolded; inserting the end edge of the garment material between the respective upper end edges of said strips; stitching together the folded upper end edge of the facing strip and the upper end edge of the stiffening strip including the upper end edge of the garment material therebetween; turning down the facing strip and the stiffening strip into the inside of the garment and securing the lower portion of the facing thereat, said adhesive providing for the subsequent adhesion of the stiffening strip to the adjacent ply of the waist portion when heat and pressure are applied thereto.

SAMUEL F. STEIN.

References Cited in the le of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,366,852 Von Rentsch Jan. 25, 1921 1,478,521 Kershner Dec. 25, 1923 1,560,712 Naylor Nov. 10;, 19215 1,928,838 Marcus Oct. 3, 1933 2,465,374 Haman et al. Mar. 29, 1949 

